Slow Boat From Laos to Thailand

(Picture by Richard Huckvale)

We are back on the Mekong River but this time we have a big arse boat and not an inner tube, we still have an ample amount of beer though so its all good. There is not much info about this journey online as most do it the opposite way so I am hoping this will help a few travellers.

FIRSTLY DO NOT PAY ANY OF THE TOUR OPERATORS FOR THIS TRIP IT IS CHEAPER TO DO IT YOURSELF AND VERY VERY EASY.

After a great deal of debating on how we were going to get from Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai we eventually decided although it took 2 days the river was going to be the best option and different, we had done flight, buses and trains already.

We agreed for a tuk tuk driver to pick us up at 7am and the price agreed is in the table below. He was there promptly at 7am and drove us to the boat harbour about 10k out of town. Once there we were able to purchase a ticket for the boat that morning again price is in the table below.

There is plenty of space on the boat and its fills up pretty quickly so get there early the boat leaves at 8:30am from Luang Prabang and doesn't wait. The boats have toilets (western style) a bar for drinks and the families that run the boats also cook food for you. There are a selection of snacks to purchase too but my advice is take your own its cheaper.

Day One:-Consists of spending 9 hours on the river until you reach the first village where you spend the night. Now we got talking to a solo traveller from Scotland (Rebecca) in the ticket office so we all sat together. Meeting new people is the best way to pass the time on the boat literally the 9 hours flew because we were talking about all the places we'd been and where we were going next.

When you get to Pak Beng it's very over whelming as soon as you get off the boat you are surrounded by about 30 people all offering you a room for the night. After 9 hours this is the last thing you need so take a minute to yourself and walk away from the crowd.

My advice on the river front on the hill you will see some wooden style huts, walk up the hill the huts are across the road from an Indian restaurant and negotiate a price for the night trust me when I say this the views are amazing the huts themselves are awesome and comfy and in the morning you get woken up by elephants from the sanctuary on the other side of the river. (Price again in the table below) We had some food at a near by place and settled in for the night.

Day Two:-After waking up with the elephants its back to the boat which leaves at 9am sharp, you pay on the boat this time. Its another 9 hours on the river this time we bought beer and lots of it and chatted away, mainly about if we were going to stay the night in the next town or head straight to the boarder to cross. We decided after 9 hours on a boat we should have food a decent nights sleep and head to the borderer the next morning. 

Again you are bombarded with tuk tuk drivers and hotel owners, we ignored them and walked into town there are ample places to stay but we chose one called Mamas as she also said she'd sort out our transport from the boarder all the way to Chiang Mai at a decent price. We went for food had a few beers and got our heads down as we still had a decent amount of traveling to do.

The boarder is a painless process, stamped out of Laos given 30 days free in Thailand and off you go simple and effective, as promised our driver was waiting on the other side to take us all the way to Chiang Mai in our air-conditioned mini bus of luxury.

All in all we were travelling for about 48 hours but the boat ride is well worth it, the views are spectacular, sit near the front of the boat as the back is pretty load with the engine and thats where the toilets are and try and get a table if the boat you get has tables that is. Take snacks and a pack of cards and socialise there are plenty of locals and other travellers on the boat.

Breakdown Of Cost Per Person

ITEM	LOCAL COST	COST IN POUNDS STERLING
TUK TUK TO HARBOUR	5,000 KIP	£0.50
BOAT FROM LUANG PROBING TO PAK BENG	110,000 KIP	£10.00
PAK BENG GUEST HOUSE	30,000 KIP	£2.80
BOAT FROM PAK BENG TO HUAY XAI	110,000 KIP	£10.00
HUAY XAI GUEST HOUSE	30,000 KIP	£2.80
MINI BUS TO CHIANG MAI	50,000 KIP	£4.70
TOTAL	335,000	£30.80

Baring in mind we were quoted 400,000 kip per person just for the boats no accommodation and no mini bus to Chiang Mai. You can see how much money you save by doing it yourself.

I hope this helps any travellers and trust me again when I say this the slow boat is the best way to travel.

Thanks for reading

Richard :)